Jules in Africa

Recent Posts

  • Tomorrow is Thanksgiving
  • Jeremy, a boy from my program, arrived today
  • left out
  • I’ve been with the priests for four days now
  • It’s funny that I have to look at my cell phone to have any idea what day it is.
  • so my journey
  • a little bit selfish
  • my new best friend?
  • i'm leaving....on an eleven hour bus ride
  • this one's for you nolie

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Tomorrow is Thanksgiving

and I can tell it'll be an adventure.  Even getting a recipe and finding the ingredients was kind of like a treasure hunt.  I'm going to make banana bread and attempt to also produce something like pumpkin pie.  Samuel just laughs at me every time I call him because I'm always completely flustered.  I feel bad because his family is from Kitgum so I feel like I was keeping him from them by calling every two seconds but I think he also liked it because those priests are so protective of me and always want to make sure I'm ok.  

He drove me to Kitgum (the big city around here) today last minute on his motorcycle so I could use the internet and get supplies.  We went the back way by this mountain because he said I should see a new way and it was so beautiful and the best motorcycle ride I've had here.  It's nice too because I can totally relax with him and take pictures and just enjoy the ride. We drove for an hour without even seeing another motorized vehicle.  We passed walkers, women with huge loads on their heads, a man even with a baby strapped on his back, and other bicyclists.  Sam is teaching me how to ride the bike now which I think makes such a big difference in how comfortable I feel.  He took me to a random field as the sun was setting and let me experiment with the bike while a crowd of children came around to laugh at me chattering non-stop in Acholi.  I had a hard time initially adjusting to shifting with my hands and not my feet but was shocked at how much easier it was then I expected.  

12/14/2009 | Permalink | Comments (0)

Jeremy, a boy from my program, arrived today


I woke up at 5 with a struggle and was just finishing up breakfast when his call suprised me.  I just wasn't expecting him so early.  I ran out of the hut still in my pajamas, my first debut in pants in the center which seems funny...I was definitely really excited to see him and have someone to talk fast to and share a little of my experience with.  Catherine wasn't home so we walked to my hut to show them around the place.  It's funny how good it feels to talk to someone really fast that you know is understanding you.  Seriously, poor Jeremy.  We walked around and I showed him my old stomping grounds and it felt funny but it was like showing someone my home.  Even being around Catherine I could feel my energy getting more playful, and even more comfortable.  

I've noticed the change even coming back from Namokora every time, I feel lighter and and more myself and so happy to see Orom.  I went on a training with Caritas, a Catholic relief agency, and although it was sort of a bust for my research I was just glad I went even for the drive to Wipolo (small village, means Heaven in Acholi).  We started driving to the right side of the mountains on the road to Kotido (karamijong land) and after a couple of miles turned at a school.  I thought we were stopping but the road basically turned into a footpath and we plowed our way through with the truck.  They never hesitated and the driver seemed completely unfazed by the bumps or the fact that we were basically blazing our own trail.  Apparently there used to be a real road but it got overgrown during the war when people were traveling to the villages less.  

It's funny though because village here basically means a hut surrounded by wilderness and perhaps other huts nearby, so you can't really imagine many trucks making the trip anyways.  I felt like we were driving through people's most personal backyards and it was really beautiful and wild but strange too.  Coming back to Orom the sun was barely setting and something about the energy felt so alive and good.  I realized the market was in town, so a lot more people are out and about and in from the village.  It only comes once a month and it is the time everyone uses to get all of the things that don't exist this far out of town.  All day people would walk by my hut on their way in from villages near the base of the mountain.  I bought some oranges on my way home to see Jeremy and prepared myself for how sour they always are here (and green/yellow).  I felt so alive in that energy of the market I could have skipped home.  Jeremy was sitting on the front stoop of my home reading and I asked him if he felt like going for a walk so we could be back in the bustle.  Agnes (his friend) had cooked beans and rice for us which were shockingly better than anything I've produced lately and we ate fast and ventured out.  I brought my camera out because I felt like I was finally ready to capture Orom. 

12/14/2009 | Permalink | Comments (0)

left out

"it seems to me homosexuality is like malaria or epilepsy.  it's something that needs to be dealt with" 

-father william

It's weird to me to be able to love someone who's ideals you hate.  There are times when discussing with Father William I could strangle him and then there are times where it feels really good to be so open and listen to someone you disagree with wildly.  Every time he starts to grill me, Seminarian Samuel excuses himself and starts to putz around.  At first this made me a little sad because of course he's my favorite, but I've come to realize that he just get's uncomfortable with the way Father William chooses to debate.  I don't think he necessarily has different views than him, I just think he chooses not to impose them or get into it with me.  

Generally I like the conversations because they allow for an outlet for all the unspoken words I've kept throughout my stay in Africa.  In Gulu it felt important to just sit back and listen and experience a new culture, but now it feels good to disagree and to challenge someone with the hopes that that will make some sort of a difference.  Maybe it won't make any difference, but isn't that kind of the point?  You keep talking and keep trying because learning another way of life is valuable even if it doesn't change any perspectives?  There are times I feel like I could almost cry, times I'm in complete and utter shock.  

The problem is they just don't know, because no one is comfortable enough to tell them.  In Uganda right now they are trying to pass a bill that not only forbids homosexuality but asks for the death penalty in cases of aggravated assault.  This includes acts like sex with minors and transmission of HIV.  The bill also asks for life imprisonment of all other homosexuals (this is what the Catholic Church is in support of) and five years in jail for anyone who doesn’t report a case of homosexuality.  Frankly, this is frightening.  I can’t even imagine how that actually works that people could hate someone that much for something that doesn’t affect them, but it has been explained to me over the last few weeks living at the church.  

First things first, no one knows any homosexuals because very few are out and speaking about it, and really only people in bigger cities.  That sets up the priests for asking me questions like “wait, so can straight normal people actually have a conversation with a gay person?”.  The problem stems from the fact that homosexuality is seen as a mental disorder  and Father William told me he thinks these ‘homosexuals’ are mentally deranged.  The government is using this bill to flood the news and distract from the upcoming elections because tensions are high and some people even fear war (to put it very simply, but this isn’t what I want to get into right now).  Most people don’t think it will be passed because foreign aid will be withheld (Sweden and  I think Norway have already promised to pull their aid) and as I'm sure you can all guess Uganda is heavily dependent on foreign aid.  I don’t know how to feel, but I think of Nusher over in Rwanda and how she said the bill would negatively affect Rwanda’s stance.  

I try to argue the point almost very night after dinner, but it’s hard to get anywhere when you're talking to someone in such an isolated location.  In America it seems easier to explain about homosexuality because you have so many positive examples to point to, but here there are no examples and they don’t talk about it because it’s not supposed to exist.  In the words of Father William, it’s a problem that he feels obligated to help America remedy, because if he doesn’t it could be coming to a village near him.   I argue and argue and argue but I’ve kept most of my personal life to myself.  I tell them that I live in a liberal place, but I’m not sure I could put the words to what Provincetown is like even if I tried.  

Finally on my second to last night every thing really changed though.  I was in Omiya Anyima, a center thirty minutes away from Namokora, staying with Father Joseph because he was babysitting the church for some Muzungu Priest sick with Malaria.  At first I didn’t want to sleep over because I had shit to do.  But no seriously, I was in the midst of trying to write 30-40 pages and I didn’t really deserve a vacation to visit another church.  Uganda church tour 2009, that’s what I’ve decided to title my research paper.  Anyways, it ended up being the perfect ending to my time here.  I stayed up with Father Joseph till 1:30 in the morning (this is really late for me here) and had one of the most open conversations I've ever had in Africa.  He held my hand and told me that he didn't believe he had the right to tell anyone what to do with their life and that he couldn't say anything about gay people because he didn't know any.  It was so refreshing to hear someone say that because although it shouldn't be necessary that they agree with me it did feel good after the rest of my experience here.  The fathers have really been wonderful and so accepting of me in their house but it angers me when they talk about romantic love  (something most of them have never experienced) between the same sex or talk about love and acceptance for soldiers coming back from the bush but life imprisonment for homosexuals.  I just don't know how that makes any sense.  So basically I poured my heart out to this priest, taught him how to smoke a cigarette because he asked, and listened to him talk about how hard it was to choose this life path, and the intense fear of women instilled by his father.  Don't worry I'll show you his baseball card he got made when he was ordained. Priceless.  I couldn't have pictured this if I tried but these are some of my best friends since I came to Africa.

12/14/2009 | Permalink | Comments (1)

I’ve been with the priests for four days now


. . . and I’ve cried in catholic mass, got drunk off one beer and gotten cornered on my views of religion, tried to explain why homosexuality is ok (the world won’t run out of people and no they aren’t mentally deranged and yes “normal” straight people can have a real conversation with them), been prayed for at every various public function to my embarrassment, been the first female they’ve ever had drive them, and been introduced to every little old lady on the block.  Similar to the majority of my experiences since coming to Africa, I really have no idea why I’m here.  Is this some sort of joke?  For those of you who don’t already know, I’m a little bit pessimistic about religion.  I believe that everyone should do what is best for them and believe what is in their hearts but for me the idea of God has never really stuck.  It’s not necessarily that I think other people are wrong it’s just that I can’t see a reason I need to believe in it or a reason that I know it’s there.  I don’t know why and I don’t really know when it started other than the fact that I’ve been this way the majority of my life.  Father William here brought up the quote about religion being an opiate for the poor, and although I understand where that might be controversial, I also see where that holds truth in looking at a community like Namokora in Uganda.  That all aside I’d say I’ve been embracing it pretty full heartedly since I got here.

    

I never realized how connected I feel to the Catholic church.  It makes sense because it’s the church I grew up with, but over the years the only reason I’ve had to go to a mass of any kind has been for funerals.  Maybe that’s why after attending a sunrise mass to see what these fathers were all about, I found myself crying in the first song.  Nothing could have surprised me more than these uncontrollable tears.  I figured these people are probably not shocked by someone moved to tears in church but I still tried to discreetly wipe them away and pretend that this wasn’t happening to me.  Funny how everyone joked about me finding God in Africa and for some reason I’ve been compelled in the last week to move into the church essentially and attend sunrise mass twice when it wasn’t even compulsory (a word they use often here).  After they gave sacrament and the women began to sing, everyone began to leave the church.  Because I felt the need to cry at every song, I was still trying to pull myself together when I emerged into the daylight and a crowd full of women.  I don’t know if they noticed this white muzungu was a bit out of sorts but they circled around me and greeted me good morning and established my general lack of knowledge of the Acholi language. 

 

 

12/12/2009 | Permalink | Comments (0)

It’s funny that I have to look at my cell phone to have any idea what day it is.


Things sort of blend together here in a way that everyday is sort of the same, routine but different too. Today was the best day since I’ve gotten to Orom. Now that I’ve decided to live half in Orom and half in Namokora(the center 12 miles away) with Father William I suddenly feel more settled here. He is going to be my advisor for my final project and I just feel like I need to be around someone who I can really discuss ideas with and frankly I’m surprised by how reassuring the parish feels at the Catholic church. Something about the simplicity of it, the quietness in the orchard (mango, lemons), the children all playing around, the homemade lemonade and the table always set with tea. It reminds me in some strange way of my grandparents house in Germany. I guess this makes sense because they were devout catholic and had a sort of simple feeling to their home always with projects in the works. It feels weird to think of living there with three male priests (or some in training to be), but it also feels right? 

I don’t know though because I am still so attached to Orom, attached to my little home there and to Catherine who I can tell I’m finally growing on. Catherine is the one who is related to my host father in Gulu and although I like her I think at first I was just some American girl that was sort of forced on her by familial obligation. Things seem to be slowly shifting though and even if Orom isn’t where’s best for me to be for school it feels like something I’m not done seeing and so I’m going to go back and forth, spending a few days with the priests and a few days in Orom each week. 

Orom has a town center but for the most part the population is there because it was an IDP (Internally Displaced Persons) camp during the war when all the people from the small villages came for security from the Lord’s Resistance Army. After the war ended the World Food Programme was still giving Orom camp food up until this past year (and apparently are still giving food to those in the most dire need , mostly disabled). The combination of the end of food distribution and the serious drought Orom experienced this past rain season, means the area is suffering pretty seriously and people are often awkwardly laughing when they tell me they don’t know what they’re gonna do. This place is growing on me. It’s weird because there was a definite loneliness to being here (I’m only 5 days in) but there is also such a wonderful community aspect that you just don’t find in most neighborhoods in America, at least to this extent. 

This morning I slept in late because I figured what the hell I’ve been waking up at 5 or 5:30 the majority of the last two months and I don’t really need to wake up that early it’s Sunday. Catherine came and knocked at my door at about 8:45 as I was beginning to wake up on my own. She wanted to know if I was sick. When I dressed quickly to join her she laughed and told me I must have been very tired last night. She handed a 5,000 bill to Phillip (3) and Brenda (maybe 4 or 5), Monica’s daughter (they live with Catherine) and told them to go get three chapatti’s. I was pretty proud in my own head that at least I could understand that in Acholi. The kids ran off to the nearby town center and returned carrying a little plate and breakfast. I still can’t get over the how mature the children are here. They give them so much more responsibility and freedom than we do in America. I mean Catherine will hand Phillip a knife when he keeps reaching for it and she just knows that he will mind it and not get cut, or maybe if he does than he‘ll learn to never do it again. 

After breakfast Catherine had to go to a workshop, apparently they are training some 32 community members on AIDS and Malaria prevention and then they go off into the smaller villages to teach people who are less informed about ways to stay safe. I sat for a while talking to Okidi Alex, my supposed translator, who I had to break the bad news to that I wouldn’t really be needing him. I felt bad but frankly I told him I was unsure and we kind of struggle to understand each other which isn’t really a good sign in a translator (by this I mean that Catherine insists on translating every single thing I say to him into Acholi because otherwise he just looks slightly confused). This was a little disheartening given the fact that he sort of is my second translator now. Little Catherine was meant to be my first but after I realized she came to Gulu just for me and basically was expecting to live in my hut with me and be my month companion I sort of had to make a change. I felt really bad especially because the hut is big enough for two and what kind of spoiled brat am I that I need to live there alone, but frankly I wasn’t ready to have someone depend on me like that or be a part of my every waking movement. So ya two translators down…

After a bit I told Okidi Alex I was going to go and try to get my stove started. I’ve been wanting to cook my whole time in Africa and this was supposed to be my chance but to be honest it’s been a pretty impossible struggle and I realize why women here spend the whole day cooking. For days I have been trying with no luck to light the small charcoal stove. I let go of my pride, well this is pretty much an every day, every moment sort of exercise, and asked Catherine to teach me. Both times she tried though it was already getting late (like 5/6 and if you want to cook dinner here you almost have to start at 3 even for beans and rice) and she got fed up trying or impatient for how long it would take to heat up that she would just send some young neighborhood kid to fetch some good and hot coals to speed up the process. Today I decided I would try on my own and start at like 10 am to really have a good go at it. Within a half an hour I am proud to say that I finally actually got it. No one was around to witness this proud moment but I sat perched on the ledge outside my hut and frankly felt like I could leave Orom happy. I don’t know why something so simple feels like such a big deal but I think it has something to do with how much respect I have for the women here and how much cooking on these charcoal stoves means in their lives. I didn’t loose this happiness even after I proceeded to burn the beans I was making, twice. Don’t ask.

Later in the afternoon I went back to Catherine’s and found older Phillip sitting there. There are two Catherine’s and two Phillips so ya…He invited me to come watch the traditional dance in the center so we walked over. I’ve seen Acholi traditional dance but something was entirely different about seeing it when it wasn’t being put on directly for you. Here were people just doing what they love and sharing it with the community in a way that surprised me because I didn’t realize how many people still practiced this kind of dance. The group performing apparently travels around and every week sets up in different small centers and villages to share with the community. The men were beating calabash bowls with drumstick like pieces made from a collection of old bicycle spokes. Some of the men had wire pieces that fit on their head and bounced with feathers attached at the top. I’ll try and get a picture of this because it’s hard to explain. The women were dancing in the middle and mostly had pulled their tops up into bras to fight the sweat that was dripping down their faces and chests. The beads they wrapped around their waist bounced with every movement (the beads are something you see here on the women that seems to come as an influence from being so close to the border of Sudan). People were coming from all over the camp to come and watch and although I still stuck out like a sore thumb I also felt like people were starting to get used to me. 

This honestly was one of my favorite moments since getting here, something about the music and the community/family feel of the gathering really made me feel at home here. After a while the musicians started to move and migrated over near Catherine’s house and under the shade of a nearby big tree. Apparently Catherine’s house is a hub for all sorts of things: medicine, food supplies, teachers, women, truck drivers, and musicians…I noticed that the neighborhood children were still playing with my hula-hoop on the small hill in front of my hut. I migrated over to them and soon we were surrounded. I think the entire group watching the musicians came to my hut to watch us hula-hoop. It felt so good to perch on the stoop outside and sit next to this older woman in the community who I really enjoy and watch these kids learning hoop tricks. It’s crazy how fast they learn. Every few children that tried, a different woman in the community would ask me to show them again and I would get up and give a mini hoop show. It was sweet that with every new group floating by, they wanted to make sure they saw me do it too. I got more and more comfortable with each mini performance and after rocking out a bit to the drummers in the distance I started to get tired and Catherine who had arrived in the middle began to shoo the kids of the mound.


12/12/2009 | Permalink | Comments (0)

so my journey

So my journey started off yesterday when I arrived at they my father’s cousin catherine’s house and realized that the big truck with all the cattle in the back was my ride to Orom.  I don’t know how this truck is directly related to my family but I know whatever it is got me a seat in the cab.  The driver smiled at me and asked me if this was my first time in a lorry.  As we got started it felt good to be finally on my way.  


In Africa everything happens in due time and it seems like that never is the time I’m hoping it will be.  I was planning on heading to Orom, or Kitgum the nearest big town, the day before but instead I was leaving a day late at 9 or 10 am (this then changed to 8 am, before changing to 2pm and then getting rushed at 1).  As we headed out of town we stopped to get me a Jerican because after all of the things my father got me to buy (that they wouldn’t have in Orom) he forgot the Jerican (the plastic containers they carry their water in).  Luckily since we were in a rush they brought it right to the cab window.  To be fair this is how it works here.  There may not be any fast food but the side of the road in Uganda is basically one giant drive through.  Really though in every town along the way when we pulled over they bring their wares to the windows and if we wanted something they didn’t have we would call out to someone standing by a shop and they would run and fetch it for us.  It feels a little wild to have everything hand delivered to you but I’m not going to say it isn‘t helpful.  


After I had my water hand delivered in it’s fully packaged glory, Catherine had the driver pull over at a water spicket in a small village and instructed me to get out and fill the clay bowl (that she had acquired off a woman on the side of the road in the last town) with water for them all to drink.  I don’t know if it was just convenient since I was seated next to the door, or if Catherine wanted to see how I handled the situation, but I know that everyone fully enjoyed watching me go up to the line of children waiting for water in some random village and see how I did.  As I climbed back on the lorry I think I passed?  At least I had the water in hand and didn’t spill it before it reached them.  The driver dipped into his third beer and I wondered how people in America might react to their semi-truck / or bus driver literally drinking while he was driving.  I didn’t really have another option to get me to Orom so I relaxed in the fact that he didn’t seem drunk and was nice enough and insisted on calling me mama because I think he had a hard time remembering my name.  It was good to have him guide me through each town though and he really seemed to want to make sure that I knew where I was at all times.  


As the sun started to set we were getting very close to Orom and to the mountains separating us from Sudan.  I think that is one of my favorite parts about being in this place, the mountains are just so beautiful against the big sky and the vast open land.  I asked about the direction to Sudan, and the driver pointed out the road you take to get to the border.  He said “When you reach the mountains that is the border.  After that is Sudan, but don’t go there they will kill you. They are very dangerous people.“  It’s really interesting to hear the Sudanese described like that especially when little Catherine (there are two) says that it is only the Sudanese that don’t like Ugandans, and that really the Ugandans love the Sudanese that’s why so many are now living here.  Two beers later we finally arrived in Orom.  It was after dark so Catherine told me I should wait until the morning to set up.  Pulling up to Orom in the dark, I finally got nervous.  In the daylight I was growing more and more excited but something about the night and the fact that there were fires burning (some really big) everywhere around us unsettled me.  Apparently they’re burning brush but even from far away honestly these fires look huge and it seems strange the way the take over the night.  After arriving to the house and having the driver tell me three times to mind my things (“those people are theifs”---the ones on the back of the truck) we sat down to eat.  I like it here because no one eats with utensils.  It’s not like Gulu where some things are eaten with hands but most are eaten with forks.  I have yet to see one of them pick up a fork.  This must be part of what Dr. William meant by the culture still being original out here.  After dinner they asked me if I was ready to rest and I was.  Me and the little Catherine laid down on mattresses side by side in one of the rooms in the main house and I read aloud to her mostly because I felt awkward reading alone to myself but also because I knew she liked it.  This morning I woke up again and again to the bustling house noises (the driver was leaving with the lorry to head to the Kenyan border before coming back and then going to Gulu).  It was nice because I always like waking up slowly to noise without having to jump out of bed.  I walked out of the house with my sleepy eyes still on and they all laughed.  

11/26/2009 | Permalink | Comments (0)

a little bit selfish

ok so i'm leaving....yaya no i'm getting really excited, nervous...i don't even know what but i'm signing out for a few weeks and will probably have a lot to say when i get back because i plan to write and save things while i'm out in orom (for those of you who don't know i'm doing a research project in a small village called orom that is near the sudan border and will give more details at a later point).  so when i get back it is my birthday and my mom wanted my address but i thought i would share it with whoever is out there and might want to send me a letter? i will love you forever.  don't send anything of value of course but letters would be nice to get before i come home.  the address is:

Jules Glatzel

C/O SIT world learning

P.O. Box 1268

Gulu, Uganda

Africa.

If you do send something you should try and make it 2 to 3 weeks ahead to be safe so i know this is last minute but if you want to maybe in the next week or so would be good...after that i'll be in kenya.  love you see you soon

11/11/2009 | Permalink | Comments (0)

my new best friend?

umm i hope this works but if it doesn't i'll fix it when i get back..the guy i met at kbs is the one in the red

11/11/2009 | Permalink | Comments (2)

i'm leaving....on an eleven hour bus ride

i did not expect to feel like this leaving rwanda.  i mean obviously i'm getting nostalgic if i let my mother dress me up with very few objections (and danced to the beyonce "put a ring on it" in full outfit).  i'm not going to lie i got a little stage fright when i realized i would have to walk into the homestay farewell party to a couple hundred seated people but hey with a little push from my host brother i made my debut.  i rode home on my last day on a boda for my own personal goodbye to rwanda.  i took a mini movie from the back and just thought about how much i'm going to miss these hills...and maybe also these nicely paved roads.  after the homestay party my fam went out to the bar and it was so cute to be with them all and enjoying the last night.  i think it really made me realize how close i've come to them too.  the night before they had told me to go get my camera from my bedroom and when i got back my brother jumped out from behind me and blindfolded me.  they led me to the kitchen and told me they had a special surprise for me (they had to lead me back into my bedroom for a sec because they couldn't operate my camera).  when they took off the blindfold they had a whole dinner feast laid out for me and handed me a cute wrapped present.  Honestly it was one of the cuter things that's happened to me in my life.  i finished the evening by trying on the dress they made me (oh and wait this is a different one that is satin black with red polkadots...not going to lie it still looks like a halloween costume) and then i gave them my homestay gifts...i wish i had brought more with me but it was kind of hard to predict being in a family of 12.  good thing my two year old brother looks more adorable than anything in his red socks hat.  when i woke up at 4:30 to catch my bus to kampala i realized i may never be ready to leave this family.  i know that it's the same with everyone here but it's hard to leave people that have so opened their hearts and homes to you and wonder if you'll ever actually see them again.  i hope so. my mother cried at the breakfast table at 5 am wishing me off. my father just laughed at her and kept saying mama j emotional....i cried when they said a prayer for my safe travels and continued to cry a little on the taxi ride to the station. i'm glad i got to say goodbye to kigali at sunrise..something about that feels peaceful in a really good way.

11/11/2009 | Permalink | Comments (0)

this one's for you nolie

DSC02070

11/11/2009 | Permalink | Comments (0)

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